Ordering an internet model is real easy...

We'll use a Fokker DVII as an example...keeping in mind that when you order a model, you get an entire folder of that particular model at only the price of the large model.

First.....
From our home page: fiddlersgreen.net
Click on the WWI order page: http://www.fiddlersgreen.net/aircraft/WWI/WWI.htm
At 'Fokker DVII', click on the little box THEN... go down to the bottom of the page and click on 'ADD TO CART' or click on 'GO TO CHECKOUT' if you are done shopping.

One last click gets you the credit card page and simply fill it out....

Click on 'SUBMIT' and you'll see a window pop up on the screen with a URL and all you need to do is click on that to get and then print your model... Make as many copies as you wish...

Most printers these days will print cardstock up to the most used #67 and even up to the sturdy #110. With the heavier stock, you might have to 'help' it through the printer by a gentle (but firm) push. Office Dept, Staples, Kinkos or Stationary shops are the best sources.

We here at Fiddlers Green use Epson ink jet printers and like to use an uncoated but with a somewhat hard surfaced #67 cardstock.

The matt surface of a softer and more pulpy cardstock gives an interesting textured looking model. Kind of like soft sponge. As you probably already know, gloss paper is a disaster for standard ink jets unless you have photo inkjet printer.

Paper thickness-67# is used for the curvy jets and newer planes. The #110 is for boxy old birds. We've discovered if you're printing a model airplane that's basically green, beige, or yellow, it's absolutely magic to print on 'ivory' or 'cream' colored cardstock.
The colors are noticeably deeper and more saturated. Blue aeroplane models can be printed on a very light blue cardstock OR just plain white- brown or Camo planes on a light tan is fantastic.
Pink aeroplanes shouldn't be printed at all. If you can't find colored cardstock, just use the basic white cardstock and you'll do fine.

Silvered inkjet paper is. sadly, no longer available

A lot of modelers use Elmer's Glue-All (a PVA glue, i.e. a latex resin dispersed in water, commonly called white glue) tacky glue (get it at craft or fabric stores) for small parts.

Tacky glue is basically thickened white glue. You'll find that leaving a small dab of Elmer's out for a few minutes similar. Plain ol' white glue is probably the best value. Adding a very small amount of water can extend the working time.

Use a very small, flat brush to apply the glue giving you a lot better control over the amount of glue - you only need a tiny amount. Keep a glass of water handy to keep the brush clear of glue. You'll probably find that "Tacky Glue" works best, It sticks better initially and sets up faster.

Aleenes is a brand of 'tacky glue' and we at Fiddlers Green recommended it for card modeling.  We put the Aleenes upside down in the baby food jar and that way the glue settles to the nozzle of the container. Needless to say one should put the cap on the Aleenes before turning it upside down.

If you can find it, UHU is good and durable although sniffable

First be sure that you've installed the most recent version of Acrobat Reader. After putting in the disc to your D drive doubleclick on the icon and the program will come up.

Next, try a couple tweaks to your CD or DVD settings like turning off the auto insert notification and the DMA (direct memory access) and you should now have full access to the disk.

If it looks like the CD label has risen just enough that the disk won't eject... Take a Steno pad and taper the thick cover widthwise slide it in OVER the disk then hit the eject with the paper clip (if it's a mac) and out it it'll come.. The card obviously holds the label down enough to allow the CD to eject.

Those who have Windows can use the "Print Screen" button to capture an Abode Acrobat PDF file as a bitmap. Then you can import the clipboard image to your favorite graphic program. Mac users can also make screenshots... **(Hold the Command+Shift + 3 keys)** If you magnify the Adobe Acrobat file, you can get an enlarged image which you can further manipulate. However, pay attention to your dpi settings or the scale may be thrown off. You may also have to "cut and paste" several images if the magnified image is too large to be shown entirely on one screen.

Choose your favorite paper with thickness of your choice for different parts. You can always print out the parts again when you goof. 

No, not any more.
Everyone gets a FREE storage folder when you sign up for our free models offer and news letter 

Every new model takes at least a month to design and prepare a webpage for making it very expensive ($3000 and up)

We carefully choose every new model for marketability so its best not to get involved with special projects unless, perhaps, you'd like to sponsor a model and cover the expenses

This seems to be an occasional glitch with Internet Explorer and AOL (which is actually tied into IE..)

Firefox or Safari work with the Fiddlersgreen website. Then again, most often the problem is with the internet and its best to try again later

The Card Modeling FAQ:

http://www.cardfaq.org is devoted to the subject of scale modeling in paper and cardstock, all subjects. It is a comprehensive resource on the history, purchasing, collecting, designing, building, and display of paper models, as well as an exhaustive collection of links to other Internet resources on the subject.

N scale is 1:160 and your scale might be 1:120 simply divide 160/120= 133% . We have a scale page on our website- look for it on our home page